For any questions about the placement of the product or its technical features, please call 958 420 087, or refer to this section. The technical datasheets can be found with each item to be freely downloaded or reviewed. Our products comply with the regulations specified in the technical datasheets.
Bricks must be storied on a dry, clean surface and protected from dirt. Destacking from the pack must be done in a stepped fashion in order to obtain a blend from the different layers of bricks. Maximum uniformity of tone for the facade will be achieved by taking bricks from various packs at the same time. Depending on the weather, the bricks should be laid dry or slightly dampened with mortar or cement-lime mortar (with hydraulic mortar), this is advantageous and will bring out the best in the facade.
To avoid efflorescence, all the wall’s components (sand, water, cement, and brick) should contain the least possible amount of soluble salts. The brick masonry must be insulated from dampness by means of an anti-humidity lamina or other means of insulation. During hot weather, the interior of the wall must be carefully moistened, avoiding an excess of water.
All the vertical joints should be pointed first, starting at the base. Subsequently, the horizontal joints should be pointed. Once six or seven courses have been laid, it is important to remove excess mortar, which is the most common source of contamination for the facade. Remove as much as possible by physical means (scraping or brushing), taking care not to damage any parts. The brushing must be done with lateral movements instead of circular ones, which could mark the construction.
Once the construction is set and dry, the remains of mortar will still be present. These can be removed with a solution of hydrochloric acid or Salfuman.
Warning: Always use a solution of ten parts water to one part product, do not use stronger concentrations.
If the stains are whitish efflorescence (crystallisation of soluble salts on the surface of the parts), the construction must be left to dry completely, because they normally disappear on their own due to the effects of wind and rain. A soft brush can be used to encourage these stains to fade, if so desired. If the salts persist after drying completely and being brushed, an acid solution treatment can be applied, although in some cases acid treatments are not effective, and even have the effect of fixing the salts by making them insoluble.
Depending on the condition of the base and the kind of part to be placed, there are two placement methods.
Thin layer placement
If the base upon which the flooring has to be laid is sufficiently level, it is advisable to stick the material to the base with quick-drying cement. The thickness of the layer of quick-drying cement shall be from five to ten millimetres, hence the name ‘thin layer’. A thin layer allows rapid drying and placement of the parts without the need to dampen them. Since the material is not dampened, it avoids the blooming of efflorescence and the subsequent clay treatment can be started earlier.
Thick layer placement
If the base upon which the flooring has to be laid is irregular, the most suitable solution is to level it with a thick layer of mortar, around three centimetres thick. The dampened slabs are then laid directly onto this layer, having been previously impregnated on their rear face with a thin layer of quick-drying cement. This method requires the clay parts to be previously dampened in order to ensure that they adhere to the mortar. The disadvantage of this placement method is that there is a waiting period while the mortar and the slabs dry completely before the treatment can be started.
Because the slabs are a natural material, irregularities in colour and surface can occur. Therefore, slabs must be mixed from various pallets to ensure a uniform finish.
We recommend laying the ceramic slab on a thin layer since its placement, drying, and subsequent treatment are all easier. We also recommend laying the ceramic slabs with a joint of between one and two centimetres, since it can experience expansion and contraction due to it being a natural material. Special pointing mortar is recommended for the joints, which are pointed with a small trowel and are cleaned with a sponge and clean water.
Waterproofing And Finishes
Ceramic tiles laid on the floor tend to stain easily, and to avoid this they must be waterproofed after their placement with one of the many products which exist on the market today for their protection (water repellents, varnishes, or oils). All of these make the material less absorbent and more repellent to water. Water repellents, however, can be applied subsequently, and can provide a more tasteful finish (natural, shiny, waxed, wet effect, etc.). For these, follow the instructions from the product manufacturer when the flooring is completely clean and dry.
Start cleaning when the mortar has set and the construction is dry. Dampen in advance the area to be cleaned. Use products which are specified for use in cleaning ceramic surfaces, or use a scale-removing acid product dissolved in three parts water. Apply the cleaning product and scrub with a hard brush along the length of the joint, not in a circular fashion, taking care not to damage the parts. Before the mixture dries, clean with a mop to completely remove any remains of mortar, saltpetre, or dirt which may be present. If this operation is delayed, the aforementioned residues may adhere to the slab once again. Once the whole surface has been washed with clean water, let it dry completely.
TILES AND TRIM
The surface which is to be clad must be clean and flat. Sketch the lines of the courses including the width of the joint (1.5 or 2 cm). Spread the anti-slip quick-drying mortar with a 6 x 6 mm or 8 x 8 mm notched trowel on the wall, shaping the grating vertically in panels around 1 m². Mix the Polo ceramic tiles and trim from different boxes to obtain a uniform colour. Lay the Polo ceramic tiles and trim by pushing them into the quick-drying mortar until they are fixed.
Once the work has dried, proceed to the pointing of the joints with prepared mortar of any colour desired. This is most easily carried out with the help of a pointing gun. All the vertical joints should be pointed first, starting at the base. Subsequently, the horizontal joints should be pointed. Use a moist paint brush to smooth the adhesive in the joint. When 40 have passed, the excess quick-drying mortar should be removed from the joint with a pointing trowel. When the quick-drying mortar is completely dry (around 24 hours), it can be cleaned with a hard brush. The Polo ceramic tiles and trim are compatible with any of our trim or rustic pieces for the cladding of both interior as well as exterior walls.